Posts Tagged ‘woodworking’

Router Table Fence

This project comes from my friend Stefang on Lumberjocks.  He built a really nice tall router table fence and used some great joinery to make sure it lasts in his shop.  With his permission  I am reprinting here for your enjoyment.  If you have a project that you would like featured contact me at theroutermaniac at gmail

I needed a special fence for routing lock miter joints. I found one designed by Norman Ellis who sent it in as a tip to another website. The fence I made below is 7” tall. It can be clamped to your regular router table fence. I jointed the top and bottom edges of this fence making sure that they were parallel.

Here it is with the sliding fence mounted and another pic with a workpiece clamped onto the slider. When you rout it you should hold the lower portion of the workpiece with medium hand pressure pressing it toward the fence without getting your hands anywhere near the bit.

Some slider details: The 2nd shot is the back of the slider.

Here are two pics of a routed lock miter joint. Keep in mind that this is construction quality Fir. Note the tear out on the trailing edge. This is normal with LM bits, but a thin Ply backer between the slider fence an the workpiece might reduce that. I haven’t tried it yet. Unless it is plywood you should route lock miter joints in one go to prevent chipping.

More good news! you can also use this set-up to rout tenons. The faces are routed with the workpiece clamped in the jig as in the first photo.

I routed the edges by clamping one of the other tenon workpieces in the slider and then holding the current workpiece edge against the fence and it’s face against the edge of the one in the clamp. It was routed like this being hand held.

The tenon routing finished

The routed morise

Here the tenon edges have been rounded to match the routed mortise.

and finally a dry fit. What do you know? It came out perfect!

I hope you find something interesting here and get some use from it. Thanks for viewing.

So Fire up that router and get out in the shop and make some sawdust!

Cuttting Dados on the Router or Tablesaw

So your project calls for some precise dados to be cut.  Some are through dados and some are stop dados.  Having never cut one before, which tool do you reach for?

 The thought process:

Router:

Never having done this before, you will have to thing about what you need.  If you use the router, you already have one (assumption).  A straight bit will do the trick for the cutting portion.  What about a dado jig?  How will you guide the router?  Do you need to buy a jig or make it?  Do you have time to make one?

Once you have or make one, you need to practice using it.

 Tablesaw:

Do you have a Dado blade?  Can you afford one?  What is the best brand?  Is your saw big enough to hold one? (check your arbor length, a bench saw arbor are sometimes shorter)  How do I cut the stop dado on the saw?

 These are good questions.  Its better and easier when you already know the answers.  Deciding the first time is what takes all the research and time.  After that when you have the tools, you can easier figure out how you want to tackle the dado proposition on your project.  One of the things I like about the tablesaw, is that it is fast.  I can cut a groove or dado quite quickly.  But I love using my Router Table, and any chance to tweak or improve its capabilities is fun.

The last thought is of course budget.  If you think that you are going to cut a lot of dado’s then the dado blade on your table saw would most likely make the most sense.  If you are budget minded and the only project you may need it on is the one you are working on then the router may suffice.

There are some really cool stuff going on out there and I like roaming around finding the good stuff and posting it here.  I will try to give you all the information as organized as possible.

Router Table Depot

• Buy Select router tables and get a 35 Piece router bit set  for FREE, coupon code is “35forme” 
• $10 off the Super Bench top router table, coupon code “tenbucks”
• $10 off the RTD 1200 Mini Cabinet router table coupon code “tenbucks”
• $20 off Router Table saw extensions  coupon code “twentybucks”

Sears

• All Lawn and Garden tools on sale

CPO DeWalt

• Up to $50 off cordless drill combo kits..CPO DeWalt

Northern Tools

• 15 % off all “northern tool brand’ tools

Rockler

• $11.99 Bench Cookie Pack
• Big Discounts in the Outlet section
• The newest innovations in dust collection.

Tool King

• DeWalt reconditioned D26451KR Orbital Sander $34
• Get 10% off 3 or 4 router bits
• Get  20% off 5 or more router bits
• Bosch 1617 PK Router Combo kit $147.55 (whoa)

It has been an interesting week in reference to router table insert plates.  Lots of questions and lots of comments on different types of plates.  One of the biggest comments has been why are router plates all different sizes?

I think the best way to describe it is money.  If a manufacture can make their shape conducive to their own brand they will keep you locked in as a customer.  What I mean is this, say you buy a router plate from Bench Dog and later on you want to upgrade to a router lift.  If you made your table, or bought a Bench Dog table, you would have to buy a Bench Dog Lift because nothing else will fit.  Its that simple.  Most guys will not start over.  It is similiar to computers.  I am a PC, but  I would really love a Mac.  Why, well to be honest PC’s kind of suck.  They are bloated with a pig of a operating system, they crash a lot, have all kinds of problems and are always being exploited by hackers.  But I am “all in” because of the software I need and use is not available on a Mac and starting over from scratch seems more of a pain than its worth.  There is also the money.  The Mac costs more than the PC and there you have it.  Back to the plates, is one any better than the other?  Nope.  Just know you may be committing yourself to a brand in the name of budget and time.

Last thought.  There has been a lot of questions abot aluminum verses phenolic or acrylic.  Aluminum plates are very expensive so does that mean they are better?  Not necessarily.  You will always have the guys that have to have the very best of everything so aluminum is great for them.  But what you really need to look at is what size router are you hanging from the insert.  You should never store your router on the insert in the table.  Most of us do and that is where the problems start.  After a while the gravity bandit comes and your insert is now not flat (acrylic or phenolic).  To complicate the matter, some people thing they need the big 3 1/2 HP router in their table. (cause bigger is better right..uh no) So they buy this monster 23lb thing and hang it on a phenolic insert and let it sit in the table for a year.  You guessed it, bad news for the insert plate.  Why in the world do you need a 3 1/2 HP router in a router table in the first place is beyond me.  You still can only shave off so much in a single pass unless you love the smell of burnt wood and dull router bits.  If power is your game, buy a shaper.

This one comes from my friend Greg the Who Dat from Lumberjocks.  He built this really cool table that can be extremely helpful in organizing the shop.  Not only does it sit flush to the saw, but it gives you a perfect extension for cutting large pieces of stock.  Now all it needs is a router insert plate! (but he has a seperate table)  Looks like he pulled out all the stops by using an Incra fence system.

I recently moved my table saw from one end of my shop to the other side and no longer had the nearby shelves where I stored my table saw accessories. I decided to build a storage shelf that would also act as a extension for my table saw top.
It is nothing fancy…just useful, and it gave me a use for the 3/4 sheet of ply and the maroon formica that has been gathering dust in the corner. The trim around the top is cumaru…hard as a rock…and the plugs are walnut.
I wanted something to hang the woodpeck “T- Square” on without scratching it so I drilled the springs out of 2 wire nuts and screwed them to the cabinet side.
It took about 3-4 hours to build it. I am now thinking I probably will build a face frame and some doors to keep the dust out.

Here is another readers project table and its a beauty.  In fact I think I would be afraid to scratch it.  This is a good example of detail if you are building your own table.  The fence is nice and high which gives you the ability to vertical router cabinet doors with a good degree of safety.  T-track is in all the right places as well.  Another great feature is drawers.  Drawers are key to keeping all your components for routing in one place.  I once built a table with two drawers and was amazed at how much stuff I had for my router table when I started gathering it all.  Keeping it in one spot will make you work more efficiently and keep things organized.  Again I found this table on Lumberjocks and asked Wisty for permission to post it here.  He has done an amazing job!

I love seeing other peoples projects, so I am always eager to show off what everyone else is building.  This makes the site more fun and more community oriented.  This one comes from a friend on lumberjocks, skywalker.  He took a rockler table idea and built out his own table using some recovered parts.  This is a great way to save money and use up items that you may have sitting around the shop already.  I really like the on/off switch to the four plug box under the table.  This is very easy to make and makes life easy if you want to plug in a shop vac or small dust collector. 

The fence clamps that grip the table are also beefy and very effective at holding your fence exactly where you want it.  Who says that a router table has to be white in color?  I really dig the yellow laminate.   

I have also enclosed the authors notes and thoughts about building this project.  Well Done!

I copied this from the version they sell at rockler. I just planed and jointed some 2×4’s to make up the frame. It is mortise and tenon construction and it is really sturdy. The top is 3/4” plywood with a solid oak edge band then covered with a yellow laminate. The track is from Highland Woodworking and the rulers are from Northern tool. I routed a tiny little groove to put the rulers into with epoxy. The rulers have etched out numbers and lines so that they don’t wear out over time. The router plate is 3/8” acrylic that I had laying around. I put small threaded inserts in the plywood top so that I can level the plate accurately with screws that go through the acrylic. The fence’s main part is the 1.5” aluminum angle. All the parts connecting to it are just solid oak. I’m not sure that this will cause problems later or not what with wood movement. I haven’t noticed any yet and it cuts a really straight line still after almost a year so I’m happy with it for now. The two halves of the fence can be spread apart to account for larger bits or putting the bit behind the fence for edge work. There are no slots for the fence, the clamps on the ends hold it in place, made out of rock maple and some bolts and threaded inserts. That way all I have to do to remove the fence for any reason I just loosen them up and slide it off the back or front. My table saw came with a router table insert and a dust collection piece that I salvaged and put on the back of the fence. None of the pictures show it but its basically a clear tube that folds down over the fence and above the bit. I really like it and it’’s quite accurate. dialing in precise measurements are real simple and it’s a joy to use.

 

This part one of a building a guitar by the Wood Whisperer.  I really like this video because I am into guitars and have always wanted to build my own.  This is a three part series and it shows a tremendous amount of details about the project.  Keep in mind this is for a classical accoustic guitar, not an electric solid body.  Below the video is some bullet point summary of the video if you are interested.  I have added a few points.  So far from part one I have surmised that you need a decent table saw, band saw, drill press and scroll saw (maybe) , jointer and router table.   The author also uses a vacume press jig that you might be able to swap out for some creative clamping.

• The materials were bought with a kit from www.lmii.com

Neck

• The Neck:  not a pre bought neck (which is cool)
• Layout of neck angle using jointer and bandsaw
• Cutting angle on Band saw to prep for glue up
• Used sander to plane the neck stock to size
• Head piece glue up using c clamps and f bar clamps (no screws!)
• Cutting the heel block, glue up
• Laminating the head piece by substituting some curly maple and sandwhiching them together with the vacume bag jig.  This takes only an hour
• Then glue the heel block and head piece then shaped on band saw.  After that cleaned up on router table with a flush trim bit.  This allows that layered glued up wood to really give some nice detail.
• slotting the heel stock for the side , used table saw with an angle on the blade.
• rough sawing the heel block shape
• Cutting the tuning machine holes on the drill press, then cleaning up the slots using a scroll saw.

Sides

• Used East Indian Rosewood
• Stock Preperaton
• Home made jig prep using a bandsaw.  I would imagine after you make this, you could churn out more guitars since you have the jig.
• cut opening for the heel stock into the jig.
• Built own custom bending jig using a light bulb and 1/4″ thick aluminum.  The lightbulb supplies the power via a 1000 watt dimmer switch (so you can control it) and water provides the moisture to bend the wood..Very neat.
• After wood is bent, clamped into jig and glued up
• Attached headstock

I like looking at new and tidy offerings. I found this little gizmo from the folks at Rockler. It shows some very interesting items without having to go through the whole site. Of notable intersests were the outlet section. After the beating my wallet took over christmas, saving money is always a welcome sign. I also liked the kitchen pull out shelf kit in the top sellers section. I was thinking about adding that feature to a cabinet in the kitchen for a better garbage set up. Currently we use a bucket with trash bags and its not working very well. I did price some slide out kits at Lowes, but all you get is the hardware and no real directions on how to make the rest of the items you need.

Well it is the holiday’s and if you have some woodworking skills (and I assume you do) then putting them to work as gifts seems like a natural idea.  I originally started out making kids furniture to sell on Ebay (highly recomended by the way, so go ahead and steal that idea).  Of course this year we have a new munchkin in the family so it only seemed naturally to dust off the old kids chair project.  I use to make the chairs the hard way which is cutting all the sides and doweling them together and hoping it comes out flat.  I have (fnally) learned that this takes way too long to do and there is a different way to skin this cat.  This year I redrew the design to be cut on the cnc machine.

I had the CNC cut all the parts and it tool like 5 minutes and they came out perfect.  Next we rounded over the edges with a palm router.  Anytime you finish an edge, wood becomes furniture in my opinion.  I do realize that not everyone has access to a CNC machine, but if you do, this can be really fun.  Next up was some good old fashioned hand sanding.  I used MDF on this project.  I know what your thinking, it will break, or its cheap, or whats your problem?

Here is my reasoning, and it comes from making a lot of these.  First of all, kids do not weigh that much, so weight is not an issue.  If you use decent joinery along with glue, they really cannot break it.  I use to build the chairs and ship them out assembled.  They were made out of maple, which is about as tough as it gets.  Federal Express still managed to destroy them, so I switched to building them as flat stock with “some assembly required” (like the rest of the world)  Once you put it together, its amazingly strong.  I had the conversation of building it out of other materials, it went like this:

Maniac: maybe we should cut them out of plywood?  CNCoperator: You will spend forever filling the voids and somehow chinese plywood has infiltrated the lumber yards and its full of voids, you will have to sand the heck out of it and I know you hate that.  You could go with Russian Birch, but thats like $80 a sheet.

Maniac: How about getting some 12″ hardwood like poplar and cutting it from that?  CNCoperator: If you can find it, its not very stable and chances are it will split.  If you send it out west where the humidity is low, it will almost always split and then you have that to deal with.  Smaller pieces with intricate joinery always make for better stability, or you can use this MDF.

Maniac: How about some other engineered material?  CNCoperator: everything is so expensive are you sure you want to go that direction?

Maniac: How about if we make the outsides out of hardwood and the support pieces out of MDF to save money?  CNCoperator: Now your bugging me.

Maniac: Or we could use decent hardwood cut on the CNC from like 6″ pieces and then pocket join them together?  CNCoperator: not a bad idea but do you want to see all those holes?

Maniac: Or we could make it out of MDF.  CNCoperator: You drink too much coffee.

See part 2 for video of the CNC and of the finished product (gift).